Stay and play review: The Headland, Cornwall

This imposing clifftop hotel overlooking the Atlantic offers sensational scenery and a sumptuous spa, with some of the best links courses in England lying within a 25-mile radius.

Built in the late 19th century, The Headland is that rarest of things: a family-owned Victorian hotel that wears its history lightly while offering contemporary comforts at every turn. Its turreted, terracotta complex dominates the skyline and sits on a rugged peninsula, a stone’s throw from Fistral Beach and Newquay Golf Club.

Inside the hotel’s corridors, a grand hallway leads to a vast open space that is scattered with chandeliers, jewel-colored sofas, and open log fires. A sense of occasion and personality permeates throughout and gives way to a timeless charm and warmth that is refreshingly unpretentious.

The golf courses

The Headland doesn’t advertise itself as a golf resort, but we consider it as such since Newquay Golf Club lies just a short stroll away, so close you can literally carry your bag from your room. The convenience factor is the big pull here, as is the affordability and absence of club-tangling rough. It was sold to me by the hotel’s family director as a warm-up for Cornwall’s three standout courses, all of which feature in our Top 100 ranking of the best links courses in GB&I.

The closest lies to the west at Perranporth (pictured above), which is the most maddening course I’ve ever played. Designed by James Braid, this raw and rugged links sits high above the town and twists and tumbles its way through towering dunes and plateaued greens.

At times, the number of blind shots feels a little overdone, which is probably why it divides opinion so much. There is no denying that it is instantly memorable, though how much so is dependent on whether you can make time to play St Enodoc as well.

I’d heard the Church Course was good, but nothing prepared me for how special it turned out to be. Although short by modern standards, the routing is pure genius, bobbing and weaving through dunes and along the edge of the Camel Estuary.

Two holes – the 6th and the 10th – are celebrated in Tom Doak’s Confidential Guide to Golf Courses, but there isn’t a weak hole on the card. The 4th – with its bottleneck green – is one of golf’s great short par 4s, but the 6th commands the most attention due to the enormous Himalaya bunker that is carved into a 70ft-high dune. 

There are other standouts too, like the claustrophobic 10th hole – possibly the toughest par 4 I’ve ever played – and the par-5 16th which slopes viciously towards the beach. Even the walk between holes is noteworthy, with glimpses of Padstow and the little church of St Enodoc to the right of the 10th green.

Everything about the place is utterly mesmerising, which is why I’ve come to label it as my new favourite course in England. I didn’t get time to play Trevose, which is reason enough to come back. But even if I only replayed St Enodoc for the rest of my life, I’d die a happy golfer. It really is that special.

The rooms and suites

One of only two 5-star hotels in Cornwall, The Headland comprises 86 dog-friendly rooms and suites, plus 39 self-catering cottages, which are individually decorated. Waiting in our suite, alongside a bottle of bubbly, was a light and luxurious living space with a separate sitting room and views of the Atlantic.

My fiancée was particularly taken by the dressing area and bathroom, which felt like an extension of the hotel’s Aqua Club, with a roll-top bath and walk-in shower that set the tone for indulgence.

The food and drink

A magnificent wraparound lounge connects the hotel’s two main restaurants, which are flooded with sunset views of the Atlantic from the 12-foot-high windows. The flagship, known as RenMor, has its own open-plan bar and kitchen, as well as a tasting menu that was heavily predicated on wine, cheese and seafood when we visited.

At the opposite end of the hotel, Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling features a hyper-seasonal and hyper-local menu where every edible part of each ingredient is utilised. The breakfast buffet also scores high for quality and quantity, albeit the 7.30am start time rules out an early morning tee time. 

The facilities

If there is a better spa and wellness centre in South West England, I’ve yet to experience it. Over £10 million has been spent on The Aqua Club, complete with six pools, which sets the standard for water-based relaxation. Visit in the summer and you can kick back on a sunset terrace while enjoying seaside views from the warmest vitality pool and hot tub you’ve ever experienced.

Other delights inside include a hydrotherapy pool with jet beds and a Cornish salt steam room that can be found inside the hotel’s second spa. Hotel guests receive complimentary access to both, while visitors can pay as little as £45 for three hours’ use of the Aqua Club.

Things to see and do

You’re yards from Fistral Beach, one of the UK’s most famous surf spots, where lessons can be arranged by the hotel. For walkers, the clifftop South West Coast Path passes the doorstep, while a short stroll into town reveals a lively mix of independent shops, arcades and cafes, where you can feast on Cornish pasties and fudge.

After your round at St Enodoc, leave the car and catch the ferry from Rock to Padstow for fish and chips at Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant. The food is sensational.

Stay and play deal

A two-night B&B stay starts from £570 and includes 18 holes of golf at Newquay and Perranporth, plus complimentary access to the spa and Aqua Club. This is based on twin occupancy in a luxury hotel room and valid until October 31, 2025.

To book, call 01637 872211 or click here.

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